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“A completely different level of understanding about Russia that I haven't read in a long time.” -Sophie Roberts, author of “The Lost Piano of Siberia.” “Extremely accurate observations... Full of empathy, Amos rejects superficial stereotypes. -Tom Parfitt, author of “The High Caucasus.” “A truly wonderful book, unique in its scope, written in a wonderful and unusual style.” - Caroline Eden, author of “Cold Kitchen.” Howard Amos returns to a neglected region on the outskirts of Russia, embarking on a journey to understand the country that was once his home. On Russia's European border, people live their lives among the ruins of successive empires. Pskov, an ancient Slavic land full of forgotten stories and faded roads, has withstood the vicissitudes of history. Once a thriving center of trade and cultural exchange, today it is one of the poorest and most rapidly declining regions of this vast country. To understand the darkness that has fallen over Russia, Howard Amos travels across it, moving between small towns, restored fields, and crumbling churches. It is a poetic portrait of Russia at the intersection of NATO and the European Union, where borders and restrictions reveal unfamiliar and disturbing truths. In a country where history has been erased, manipulated, and marginalized, the voices that Howard Amos highlights are a powerful antidote to forgetting. From the last residents of a dying village to the residents of a psychiatric hospital, and from a museum curator fighting against local opposition to document Pskov's forgotten Jewish heritage, Howard Amos reveals poignant stories shaped by violence, tragedy, and loss. He also meets some of the powerful men who have dominated Pskov, leaving behind a troubling legacy, from far-right politicians to Putin's personal priest.